Acqua di Colonia – Villoresi’s interpretation of the classic ‘cologne water’ takes a distinctly herbal bent over the usual citrus-based formula. From the opening, a medley of citrus is joined by lavender and elemi, and while the drydown is straightforward, it continues the theme of herbs down to the musk base. Wonderful. [***]
Incensi – Opens green and mildly soapy (elemi and galbanum) with a faint cinnamon note that grows over time and is lightly framed by ginger and labdanum. As this dries down, the cinnamon is increasingly supported by the frankincense. The effect of the cinnamon is to heighten the citric notes in the frankincense, while dustier resins like myrrh and labdanum play a quiet supporting role. Very interesting. [**]
Musk – Perhaps the most feminine and elegant out of the Villoresis I’ve tried. Soft floral notes and light spices and resins pave the way to a very soft musky rose, framed by a variety of woods. [**1/2]
Piper Nigrum – Black Pepper. Green notes mingle with citrus and spices before the namesake note enters the picture. This is never overwhelmingly spicy, with the pepper and other spices and herbs tempered by resins (olibanum, myrrh and styrax), amber and woods. [**1/2]
Uomo – This is one of the most amazing scents around. It is never overbearing, but there is so much going on that it seems to be alive. Uomo opens similar to AdC, with citrus adding life to lavender and elemi, this time joined by some spices as well. Green and earthy notes join in as Uomo dries down, and the base, while seemingly dominated by a lively vetiver, has so much going on I still haven’t deciphered everything. In many ways, this can be seen as a sibling of Acqua di Colonia. Where AdC whispers of sunshine, white beaches and blue oceans, Uomo would be at home in any situation. [***]
Vetiver – I have to be honest, after several tries, I still do not understand Vetiver. I actually get very little vetiver in this composition, which, to my nose, smells like curry. I will have to give it another try. [???]
Yerbamate – This is a soft green scent, with hay and grass framing the central mate (tea). This maintains its focus on the mate and green notes throughout the drydown, where these are joined by soft resins and woods. [**1/2]